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Installation |Tips/ Tricks
1.
Turn off the electricity!
Before starting to wallpaper, the electricity in the entire room must be turned off by shutting off the fuse box.


2.
Plumb Line:
Very rarely are corners of a room exactly vertical.
Therefore, the first wallpaper strip on each new wall should be aligned to a plumb line, or alternatively a true vertical line should be marked using a level.

3. Electrical Outlets and Switches...
should be covered with wallpapered after removing the protective front plate. A cross should then be cut in the wallpaper at that point.  Clean all paste from the switch mechanism. After the wallpaper has dried, use the cutter knife to cleanly cut around the outlet.
Hang wallpaper over the covers of all feeder boxes.

4. Doorways...
should be wallpapered beginning from one side. Cut the wallpaper cleanly at the door frame. Fit a piece of wallpaper over the door while taking care that patterns match up. Then position the next full strip over the door with overlap and fit it to the frame using the cutter knife.

5.
Window Bays...
should also be wallpapered starting from one side. However, do not start the strip at the edge of the window opening, but rather let it overlap sufficiently so that the depth of the bay plus an extra measure is available. Cut into the extra projection above and below, lap the soffit into place, and cut it exactly at the edge of the window.
Leaving some overlap, cut the piece above the window. A wallpaper strip that has already been cut to allow for lapping into the soffit from above, should be positioned above the window so that the patterns match, and so that it overlaps the excess overhang.
Now a free-hand vertical cut can be made here through the double seam by using a slip-foot knife. It should end exactly in the corner of the bay. After removing what was cut away from the strip under the seam, the overlapping strip should be crudely cut to fit,  including an extra calculated width. Then lap it into the soffit, press it on and fit it about the window using the cutter knife. Further window strips should then be pasted on, taking care that the patterns match.
Cut out the recess for the roller shutter belt cleanly, so that all cut edges will be hidden by the blind.

6.
Sloping roofs...
may present problems where they join to vertical walls. If the concave runs straight, then a full strip can be hung from above all the way into to the corner. At that point, separate the strip and then start anew with the lower part. The upper strip must overlap the lower one in this procedure. If the concave is not straight, then cut the upper and the lower strips separately allowing an extra calculated measure. After hanging the upper strip, then hang the lower one with all patterns matching so that it is again long enough to reach under the upper strip.

7.
Arches:
First wallpaper the wall strips next to and above the arch allowing 2 to 3 cm overlap. Make several cuts into this overlap and fold the cuts over, pasting them onto the arch. Then paste on the soffit which has been cut exactly to measure. By utilizing corner profile ledges that must be fitted to every curvature, clean terminal junctions can be attained, particularly when working with patterns..
As a result, all patterns that do not fit together (which is unavoidable) are optically separated on soffit and wall.

8.
For finished edges between wallpaper and sanitary fixtures...
such as sinks, bathtubs, etc., crude cuts must first be made with scissors. Press the wallpaper to the wall and then fit it exactly to the fixture with the cutting knife at the spatula (stopping knife).
Moisture from sanitary fixtures can penetrate into adjoining wallpaper. Such areas should be sealed using a special elastic caulking.
 
9.
For piping feedthroughs...
the wallpaper must be cut to the feedthrough and then fitted, star-shaped, in the area of the pipe. After pressing the wallpaper on, it is possible to cut exactly around the pipe using a cutter knife.

10.
Drying the Wallpaper
While the new wallpaper is drying, drafts and heating should be strictly avoided. Otherwise, paper tension, induced by drying too quickly, may lead to seams being pulled apart.
If possible, room temperature should be around 18 degrees Celsius.


 

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